(not the music group) but chronicles of a shamelessly self-proclaimed writer through reading, reflection and experience. Passionate about India, the nonprofit sector and the tiny role I get to play in this so-called Philanthropic ecosystem. My journey is about 'doing good' and sometimes getting it right! Living in the DC-metropolitan area with dear husband and two sons.
Every
morning, my daily commute is a mix of rush hour traffic to the metro, delayed
schedules and overcrowded trains. While the body is fighting the morning blues
and attempting every bit to stand/sit amidst the commuters, the mind is always rushing
through those thousand and one things pending on the 'to-do' list outside work
and at work. Hence no surprise that the moment you get off at the metro, it is
all about getting on with those tasks asap.
However there are some mornings,
when there ought to be a slight detour. Like one of these marked by a group of
musicians – with their instruments tuned to hit the soul at the right spot. It
was more meaningful – a unique vibe, an uplifting sound, the kind of music to spring
up the morning vibrantly.
They were there to welcome us morning commuters with
their tune - a tune that connected us by their chords. When leaving some cash in their case, a sense of joy was felt;
it gave a different perspective to this morning; and a feeling of gratitude
prevailed.
Iceland is not a country one can visit again mainly because of its astronomical prices, but our recent holiday to this country was simply the most memorable! It is not a popular destination for the brown skin and when I say that, I mean it literally - validated by the fact that A and I were almost the only two 'brownies' in this land of fire and ice. Nestled alone in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, this land provides some of the most stunning landscapes - with active geothermal springs, Glacier Mountains, waterfalls, black-sand beaches and an extremely vibrant remoteness to existence. It boasts of the world's oldest functioning parliament (established in 930), midnight sun in the summers, northern lights in the winters and most importantly, its 'Icelandic' way of life. Of course, it is a misnomer that due to its economic crisis, the country is ‘affordable’, nevertheless, our visit for a week was simply the most amazing! What better way to relive every moment of the trip than by sorting pictures and essaying on them –
Blue Lagoon
Since this is close to the airport, it made practical sense to begin our trip with this site. The Lagoon is a geo-thermal spa, man-made by accident, thanks to the water from the geo-thermal power plant in close proximity.
The water that was run off the filter from the plant was assumed to have been absorbed in the nearby grounds but it actually got collected in the surrounding lava and thus formed a Lagoon – an amazing aqua-blue color created due to the mix of algae/silica formed in the geothermal water.
The lagoon is surrounded by a misty landscape and lava fields abound. Maintaining this backdrop, the building is a low-key standpoint close to the plant that seems like a star-trek satellite base of sorts. One of the main touristic destinations turned out to be the most under-rated! The lagoon itself is considered to have curative properties typically, this experience involved slopping into the warm 30C water and grab handful of silica – from around the pool area – give yourself a scrub and then let it run through under an enormously hard waterfall - a natural form of ‘swedish massage’ one can ever get!
Golden Circle
We took a day-trip around the Golden Circle – mere collection of splendid wonders and historical sites and called golden because of the region being encircled with the most vegetation in the country. Also ironic is the fact that this site is a park where continents have met and collided to form fire and solidify into ice!
Silfra - We started off by taking a ‘dry-suited’ snorkeling ‘tour’ (thanks to Tobias from Dive.is) of the Silfra – the crack between Eurasian and North American tectonic plates visible in this glacier, clear-transparent and purest form of water.
The sensation of snorkeling, at first intimidating, was the most impressive especially since the water current literally swayed us through the two ‘continents’ in 2C water. This clearly was the highlight of our trip!
Thingvellir National Park - Apart from being considered as the site ‘in-between two continents’, this is also the world’s first Parliament (930). We took in its various elements – the visible fault line where the plates meet in the form of a long ridge. We walked partly through the ridge with stunning views of the Althing.
Geysir - At first, this site let out an awful smell – the likes of ammonium peroxide in a chemistry lab. After a while, you get used to it especially when seeing Geysir Strokkur erupt every 7-8 minutes or so, a precision of super-hot water that shoots right into the air from a hole in the ground.
A stated that these are caused by hot water colliding with the cool one and thus thrusting towards the surface!
Gulfoss (Golden Falls) - Same was true here where there were absolutely no security measures stopping us from going to the edge of the falls – and the experience was oh-so breathtaking!
There are two sets of these falls – each as magnificent (as Niagara) yet the wind and water with the stunning backdrop made it memorable.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
We drove to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula – west of Iceland ridged by extinct volcanoes, landscape of glaciers, open beaches and sandy shoreline. It was this place that was referenced as ‘The Journey to the Center of the Earth’ by Jules Verne.
Budir - Visit to Snaefellsnes would not have been complete without a stay in Budir, 28-room hotel, set amidst a visceral surrounding with unspoilt view in all directions – lava fields, snow-capped Snaefekksnesjokull glacier and a wooden black chapel.
It is also one of the most romantic hotels with fancy food and to reiterate, a location to die for.
Glacier - The Snaefekksnesjokull Glacier offers some of the best hiking trails and while we nearly missed out on snowmobiling (the off-road driving on the glacier that was to lead us to the site became one of the scariest but wildest experience ever),
the view from the top was stunning!
Rural Iceland – About 20 minutes from Budir, is Arnarstapi, a small village of collective dozen homes with a tiny harbor – typical fishing community –
offers a quaint feel with rock formations at the seashore, caves carved in the cliffs with amazing arches and bird cliffs galore.
Another similar town is Hellnar that offers one of the prettiest restaurants on the base of the cliff, overlooking the ocean. These towns share similar impression in that, there are lego-typed homes nestled at decent proximity to each other with remote access to civilization (except for regular tourists flocking around) and yet, savvy with the Internet.Here we got to ride on the Icelandic horses – more so as a pleasure-ride through the sandy beaches and river streams.
It was strange in such a harsh land to see sheep in flocks including the black sheep of the family.
Reykjavik (Reh-Kah-Vikh)
We never got the pronunciation of this city right, until we got there. Nearly 60% of the country's population resides in its capital and a trip to Iceland does call for getting a flavor of its 'urban' lifestyle by staying in the capital. Apart from exploring the ‘wild’ side of the country, we also got a taste of the world’s northern-most capital. The city had a pretty look-and-feel with narrow streets opening up to the harbor, upcoming high-rises and buildings painted in shades of blue, yellow, red.
These streets are popular for the graffiti art that adorn walls of the small buildings.
At the center of the city and standing tall is the Hallgrimskirkja Church gifted by the US to the country honoring the 1000th anniversary of the Althing. Unfortunately, we were unable to go inside or enjoy this site due to the on-going scaffolding work. A statue of Leif Ericson (the first explorer to visit Iceland) stands in front of the Church and offers a pretty view of the city in the background.
Then there is a mock-up version of a Viking Ship that at first looks like a multi-legged insect!
Another site further away from downtown city – Perlan (The Pearl) –a glass dome structure consisting of museum, art gallery, revolving restaurant and an observatory with a stunning view of the city and far beyond.
The main shopping streets in downtown Reykjavik - Laugarvegur and Skolavoroustigur – with boutique stores, souvenir shops and cafeterias galore. We frequented one of the popular retaurants – A Naestu Grosum (meaning First Vegetarian) – that provides a plethora of vegan meals, mess-like food but amazingly delicious and fresh. And how can Indians miss out on Indian food - so visiting the northern most Indian restaurant in the world was a must – visited the Austur Indiafjelagio literally meaning The East India Company for some delicious desi khaana. One of the weirdest things we experienced is the concept of water – drinking and otherwise. Hot water from the tap smells of sulphur and egg mixed together BUT the cold water is the purest form of water one can ever get. So the first piece of advice we got as tourists was to NOT buy bottled water in Iceland.
Overall, Iceland has a wonderful blend of luxury and adventure which, thanks to DTW, we were able to experience both. The sights it offers do tend to take the breath away and the remote existence was extremely romantic.
So would we visit this country again? To see the Northern Lights, most definitely!
I chanced upon a list of 100 things to do in Mumbai and almost every one of them brings back memories of times spent gallivanting around the city! Each of us have our own 'things to do' in the city we love, the city that runs through our memory veins and the city that has the ability to bring out the best AND the worst in us. I reproduce this list as is here with my comments on some of the things I have done, yet to do and my own interpretation of some that I am attached to: 1. Get high on Qawaali at Haji Ali - Not sure about the Qawaali but totally worth walking through the slippery, rocky path that lead up to the Masjid and then do the 'maatha teko'. Make sure the head is covered as a form of respect to the place. It is a norm. 2. Spot a celebrity at Juhu PVR 3. Sit down on the steps of Asiatic Society Library - and watch the world go by!
4. Crane your neck to see the Bombay Stock Exchange building - The site of watching brokers and those alike on-the-go and on-the-phone. For a photographer, it would be fun to capture images and expressions of these individuals. 5. Spot a leopard in IIT Bombay Campus. If you can't, settle for an IITian girl. 6. Enjoy a play in Prithvi Theatre - absolutely! A personal favorite!! And not to forget, some hot coffee to sip along with some brownies too. If keen on dinner, some aloo paratha with kaali dal and raita! 7. Enjoy the NCPA in a play or opera - their experimental theatre showcases some of the best talents in the city! Also, it can be followed by some good road-side Chinese food if those stalls still exist considering, they were banned at several places. 8. Find some calm around the Banganga Tank - I'd say, visit this place during the Banganga Festival. It is priceless! 10. Haggle for non-antiques in Chor Bazaar - they say, you never know what will be handed to you! 11. Face the high tide on Worli seaface - and thereafter, munch on some grilled veggie sandwiches and gulp down Energy! If its a rainy day, how about a cup of tea and some butta? 12. Bet money on race horses at the Royal Western Indian Turf Club, Mahalaxmi - More of a fashion show and since I am always low on cash, I would avoid this one. However, I would recommend some nice brunch at Gallops and watch the horses trot. 13. Dangle your feet, lean back on your palms and enjoy the sea from the Marine Drive promenade - Apply #7 and latter part of #10 here as well. 14. Go for a heritage walk in the Naval Dockyard (first Sunday of every month, Indian nationals only) - Wow, this sounds intriguing! Will try it the next time I am in the city. 15. Explore the Sanjay Gandhi National Park. A National Park in the city limits? Oh yeah! - Totally recommend this one. It seems there is less-travelled path that leads form Borivili to Powai (An IITian friend did this one!) and some of us friends did attempt on this one, after bunking a dreary lecture but 15 minutes into the stretch and we returned!! But do recommend Kanheri Caves and rock-climbing. 16. Soak in the Victoria Terminus - Delight to the eyes at night and something to soak in! Also, interesting is to hop on a 'shared' cab ride during peak times from here. You'd be surprised at the kind of people that would ride with you. 17. Watch DDLJ at Maratha Mandir - Come Fall in Love?? Totally cheezy! I am not a big fan of this movie yet, everytime it plays on TV, I tend to grab some moments from there. While Maratha Mandir has set a Guiness Record by showing this movie for the last 14 years (kidding!!), I am not sure how it'd be to watch it from there. Nevertheless, visiting MM is an fun considering the booming multiplexes that have made these ornate structures redundant. 18. Park at Hard Rock Cafe and mourn for a minute the death of mills around Parel. 19. Jog on Juhu Beach - The stretch next to the Godrej Bungalow near Holiday Inn is one of the better stretches to jog on. And not to forget, the indulgence of GOLA and all of #84 out here! Also, some kiddie moments of merry-go-rounds out here could be a good laugh. 20. Sit on a tetropod at Nariman Point in midnight till the police constables shoo you away. 21. Stand still on the flyover bridge at Dadar station and watch the crowd whiz by you - And if you are a woman, be prepared to get molested with n number of men touching you briskly. Yet, changing the trains from western to central lines at Dadar station at peak times is an experience to cherish. Kudos to people I know who did this every single day and to those who do so as I write! 22. Find out who is grittier You or Crawford Market? - The butchers' market area is extremely gory and I do think I can ever visit that part again! 23. Find the Fort Wall - now this would be interesting. I know that the Khaadi Bhandaar, Horniman Circle Gardens, Kala Ghoda are all part of this wall and mesmerizing to the core! But will have to see if I can spot the Wall beyond those vendors. On another note, a total must is to (a) enjoy the Kala Ghoda Festival (#92) and (b) watch a play/musical at the Horniman Circle Gardens. This can transform you to a magical night of light, color and grandeur. 24. Ride the Victoria on Marine Drive. 25. Discover the city's Jewish connect at Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue - added to my to-do list. I learnt more about this during the 26/11 attacks on the Jews.
26. Watch the sunset over Aksa Beach in Madh Island - If I had to go this far, I'd choose the Renaissance in Powai overlooking the lake. Also, the sunset from Haji Ali (#1), from the upcoming sea-link, from the princess necklace they are all worth it! 27. Discover the underbelly of Mumbai in Dharavi - and make sure you do not get lost! On second thoughts, get lost and see where you land. If you are a shopoholic, venture into one of the leather shops and check out how the store owners boast about the display look-alikes of Louis Vitton, Gucci, Nine West, Prada and many more. 28. Stay for a night at Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. You definitely want to tick off this luxury address for the oh-I-stayed-there-for-a-while conversations. - More of the NRI types but worth being pampered at the Taj even if it means going to any of their restaurants or a massage at their salon. They surely know the essence of hospitality. 29. Catch the national madness of cricket in Oval Maidan. 30. Cheer a football match at Cooperage ground - and cricket at the Bombay Gymkhana especially if it is between the Xavierians and their Alumni! 31. Bury your nose in books for hours at Strand - enjoy bun-maska with tea at the corner and check out some souvenirs at the Bombay Store. 32. Stroll in Bombay University. 33. Climb the airport wall in Kurla to gain a phenomenal view of Boeings - I thought this was wired after it got destroyed during the 26/07 rains. 34. Swoon at a concert in Bandra Kurla Complex - worth visiting is the BKC gardens right ahead and enjoy the serenity there. It is a rare to spot such a place in the city unless it has already been infested by civilization. 35. Gaze at the Queen's Necklace from the Hanging Gardens at dusk - there used to be Cafe Naaz which was the bestest place to hang out. Sad they demolished it :-( 36. Hunt for antique furniture in Oshiwara. 37. Hike up the Mazgaon Hill. 38. Buy books from roadsides around Flora Fountain - one can get all kinds of banned books and some weird ones with spoofs on Men are from Mars... 39. Enjoy the private palaces of Malabar Hill - with flourishing towers, few exist. Nevertheless, the drive up and down the Hill are nice especially the latter which merges into an open stretch to get the first glance of the ocean. 40. Part on a ferry in the Arabian Sea off Gateway of India - how about ferrying up to the Elephanta Caves especially during the festival? 41. Take a break from the city. Vasai offers the ramparts of Bassein fort, ruins of Portuguese churches and East Indian food. 42. Trek in the Sahayadris - The best is Bhimashankar especially during the monsoons. Another thing during the monsoons is rafting in the Ulhaas River. Good rapids on the west coast of India! 43. Say hello to the fauna at Byculla Zoo. 44. Buy a camera from D N Road's gray market. 45. Dare the red light district of Kamathipura - this is not as bad as it sounds. Kind of overhyped and walking during broad day light, you do come face-to-face with stark reality that makes you wonder who is living in a bubble - them or you. 46. Guess what RFID system they use to tag clothes at the Dhobi Ghat - forget that. Just visiting the Ghats in unique and a photographer's delight. One needs to get there by 7am. Better still, watch as the sun sets it first rays on the Ghats as the beloved dhobis get to their act. 47. Take a power nap at David Sassoon Library. 48. Catch movies at art-deco cinemas: Regal, Eros, Metro - Sterling would top my list here. 49. Bow your head before the city's famou deities: Mumbadevi (where it all began!!), Mahalaxmi (Sunset view is awesome), Walkeshwar (beautiful architecture), Siddhivinayak (overrated but a must-do when in Mumbai), Iskcon (extremely serene..do try the coffee here) 50. Dine where Shahrukh Khans and Ness Wadias dine: Olive, Indigo. - If you do want to splurge, I would actually recommend Souk at Taj, Franjipani at Oberoi or Emperor's Court at Renaissance (The view from here is to die for).
51. Feel the sufi mystism at dargahs of Haji Ali and Maqdoom Ali Mahimi. 52. Shop at the Bandra boutiques or if they are too expensive give Hill Road or Fashion Street a shot - Hill Road for sure. However, the best road-side shopping is Colaba Causeway followed by # 78. 53. Gape at famous residences: Shahrukh Khan's Mannat, Amitabh Bacchan's Jalsa - They all look the same to me and Ricky, no Shahrukh does not own an Island, he merely lives on one like other 13 million! 54. Discover the theatre scene in the city at venues other than Prithvi and NCPA: Sophia, St. Andrews, Rangsharda, Ravindra Natya Mandir. 55. Explore the Powai and Vihaar lakes - How can I ever forget the school picnics that were to these two destinations. Once considered as outskirts of the city are very much a part of sprawling township. 56. Visit the museums: Prince of Wales, Monetary, Modern Art, Mani Bhavan - these are not much to write home about and hope can be well-preserved. Mani Bhavan has something for a Gandhian and would be worth walking to the August Kranti Marg (rather what little remains of this historic site). The Prince of Wales Museum (now known as the Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vaastu Sangrahalaya) is in one of the most precious areas of the city and has a grandeur image to it. Albeit in a run-down state of preservation, least one can do is pay a nominal fee of Rs. 5 (is that even a fee??) to find some pre-historic jewels, armours and artefacts. 57. Admire the British era architecture in Fort: Churchgate station, Western Railway headquarters, High Court, General Post Office, Telegraph Office, Police Headquarters - Mumbai, considered as one of the Victorian Gothic cities of the world, has been endowed by the British with a legacy of divergent styles. Totally worth checking these sites. 58. Learn about the rock-cut architecture: Elephanta, Kanheri, Mahakali and Karla Caves. 59. Explore the churches: Gloria church Byculla, Portugese, Mt. Mary Bandra, St. Michaels Mahim, St. Thomas Flora Fountain, Wodehouse Colaba, Afghan Church Navy Nagar, Our Lady of Salvation Dadar, St. Andrews Bandra - Mt. Mary's offers the best of times during the Bandra Fair every September. 60. Check out an art exhibition: Jehangir Art Gallery Fort, Tao Art Gallery Worli, Piramal Art Gallery Nariman Point - And if you do visit Jehangir Art Gallery, it is imperative you have Aloo Paratha and Raita at Cafe Samovar. 61. Buy fish at Sassoon Docks, Cuffe Parade or Dockyard Road, Mazgaon. 62. Find the forst of Mumbai: Bombay Castle, Castella de Aguada, Madh Fort, Mahim Fort, Sion Fort, Sewri Fort, Worli Fort. 63. Buy a vintage bollywood poster in Mini market or Lamington Road - Of course! Countless argumants I used to have with my mom about my 'justification' to have these posters in my room. What was I thinking? 64. Get away to the beaches around Mumbai: Alibag, Kashid, Murud, Nagaon. 65. Travel to places overnight: Goa, Ajanta Ellora, Mahabaleshwar, Pune, Khandala, Lonavala - Each place has its own USP, some for commercial purposes too. My favorites are Panchgani and to enjoy the beach, the cleanest stretch in Ganpatiphule in those fancy MTDC tents. 66. Discover the charm of marble tabletops, bentwood chairs and Irani chai at Parsi cafes - Sometimes it can be an overdoze if you work for a Parsi conglomerate. 67. Catch behind the scenes action at a Bollywood studio - They still have the sets used in epic series like Mahabaratha and Ramyana. Also, the view atop the hills in Goregaon is simply brilliant, what with a view of the growing sky-scrappers vis-a-vis the stumbling slums. 68. Loft the ball for a six in your neighbouring 'galli' cricket but make sure you do not break any window panes - and spot how the girls outweigh the boys! 69. Silently stare at the Towers of Silence and Agiaries. 70. Shadow the dabbawalas for one full day - this sounds like fun! 71. Walk through a koliwada. 72. Ride a vintage lift in a 100-year old building - true! Also, the liftmen here are more vintage than the life itself. 73. Travel in a local train. How about the Virar fast? - Check #20. 74. Ride in a double-decker bus. Isn't Mumbai the only city where they still run them? - To ride them on the Marine Drive-Chowpatty stretch is scenic. 75. If you have made it to a penthouse in Mumbai, you might as well enjoy the view.
76. Drink cutting chai, eat vada pav - Any nook-corner of the city has its own taste of these. From Colaba to Virar, this diet is the heart of the city. Also, do try out the jhunka-bhakar at VT station. 77. Gorde on late-night sandwiches in Juhu. 78. Sip some wine at an expensive seaside restaurant: Vie Lounge Juhu, Dome Marine Drive, Aurus Juhu, Salt Water Grill Chaupatty. 79. Figure out what all the fuss is about having a beer in Mondegar or Leopold - You wouldn't want to miss this one. And do not forget the jukebox! 80. Jack your car bonnet using a cold-drink bottle and eat kebabs at Bade Miyaan in Taj's back alley - I was told that only the small bottles work for this one but this is worth a visit past midnight. 81. Savour a fine authentic meal of East Indian cuisine at Anant Ashram. 82. Eat a Gujarati-Marwari thali at Friends Union Joshi club in Kalbadevi - Personal favorite is the Thakkers at Marine Lines especially during the Mango season. 83. Smoke a hookah at roof-top restaurant Koyla in the Arab quarters of Colaba. 84. Eat South Indian fare in Matunga - Ashit would top this to the list! 85. Eat pav bhaji, pani puri, bhel puri, sev puri at Girgaum Chaupatty - Taste of the city lie in these items! 86. Chew a paan outside Shoppers' Stop, Bandra W - Mucchad Pan at Peddar Road cannot be beaten. He is a pan eater's addiction, an obsession. Do not believe me? Watch this. 87. Indulge yourself with fruity flavors of Naturals ice-cream. And if its summer, try a cup of Alfonso mangoes with malai ice-cream. 88. Learn the art of ordering tea in a streetside cafe "Ek Paani Kum Dena".- And also the art of drinking from those tiny 'shot' glasses which I am yet to get it right. 89. Drink Kingfisher, Cobra or Zingaro in your neighborhood look-alike bar of nightlovers - Naaah...these are boring. How about some sugarcane juice outside the Taj? That is to die for! However, I would not vouch for your gastronomic system to support it. 90. Try green chilli ice-cream at Bachelors - before that, some masala Khichyaa papad 'pizza' look-alike for sure! 91. Swing to some live music as you enjoy your continental meal at Not Just Jazz By the Bay. Do pay attention to the witty hoarding outside as you leave the place - True to its words 'Not Just...', it is fun karaoking to some rendition with a bunch of buddies. 92. Run the Mumbai Marathon - to support a cause! 93. Enjoy the Kala Ghoda Art Festival - and soak in the merriment. 94. Cheer 'Mumbai Indians' in an IPL cricket match at Wankhede Stadium - would be unlikely if the IPL is moved out of India. However, simply cheer India for a cricket match at the Wankhede but make sure that the tickets you purchase are genuine and not sold in black. The cops there know their job well and if caught, you can land in the local police station watching the match with the remaining havaldaars. Do not believe me? Ask my brother. 95. Get drenched to the bone while biking in the monsoons - quintessence of Mumbai, the city's monsoons are simply to rejoice and soak in pleasure. 96. Sing 'Govinda Aala Re Aala' as 40 feet high human pyramids take the prized matka - of course!! And if this is part of your community, make sure you do contribute decent amount into the matki. Else, it is not fair to them. 97. Get lost in the crowds of Ganesh Chaturthi - Totally! 98. Watch thousands of pink flamingos in the mangroves at Sewri - Another delight to the D90 and Cannon powershot owners but I hear this would be extinct due to the demolition of mangroves along that live :-( 99. Eat Nihari Kebabs and sweetmeats around Masjid on the eve of Eid. 100. Run a 'free hug' campaign. This is Mumbai, Meri Jaan - Jaadoo Ki Jappi always works! And yet as I end this list, I feel it does not do justice to a zillion things one can come up to be in this Maximum City. Feel free to add your own experience to this.